La Valletta

Xlokk (Sciroc wind): African, pouder-bringing, wild. Or rather lbic (Libic wind): African as well, warm as summer, the season during which it blows all through the Mediterranean. Maltese orientation is set by the winds rose. Thanks to the cold "Tramuntan" I got my feet on the right pattern through the small alleys in Valletta, Malta's capital city. I left the high walls protecting the town from marine assualt behind me as I went up Triq-i-Tramuntan (North Street, indeed) all the way to Saint John's co-cathedral. The curch, as La Valletta itself, was conceived as a symbol of Catholic supremacy in the Mediterranean. The capital city dates back to 1565, the year of Malts's great siege: the island resisted to the attacks of Ottoman fleet and scored an important victory for the whole Christian Euopean world, thanks to its people strength and the strategic skills of St. John's chevaliers chief of the time: the French general La Vallette. As a reward, a new town was built after him. The construction of the cathedral of Catholicism pioneering capital was fuelled (of course) by capital and artistic investments coming from all major European Countries. Each of them got represented into the church: it indeed containd eight chapels on the two sides next the central nave. Each stands for one among the official language spoken by St John's chivalry order. The most prominent were located closer to the altar (as a sign of proximity to God...alright...that's the official version, up to the reader to buy the story or not...). The visits are well organized: there's much to see inside the church and you get an entrance ticket with audio guide for six euros, worth invested given it takes approximately one hour, which is interesting still not too long to be boring.

As you are out, just take your time to wander around the town's alleys: Triq-i-merqanti, the flowers oasis in Bukkara Gardens and down Triq-st-paul to Fort-St-Elmo, where you get an amazing view of the gulf to the old town of Birgu on the other side of the coast. Birgu is older than Valletta and it's the town which actually resisted to the Ottoman siege. It's worth a visit, given you can reach it in a quarter of an hour by bus from Valletta's City Gate (the bus station: a Marquez-style place where, btw, you can also taste the best Maltese snacks in town if you are fond of typical food).
Though beautiful and relaxing during the day, Valletta can be quite boring at night. Beside, there're not many hotels and hostels to stay (unless a couple which look a bit..vintage..). Consider the excellent bus connections to Sliema and Saint Julian, it's much better to stay in one of the hotels in that area: cheap, confortable and clean, correct breakfast included and above all located in front of an amazing sea path which runs for some kilometers from Sliema to St Julian. If you're fond of jogging, you cant miss it!

Saint Julian offers tons of cafés and pubs to "test" at night. The island is quite international because some English schools organize courses in Sliema, hence you wont have problems in finding friends.
If I had to suggest some hotels, I'd recommend Gzira, two-minute walk to Sliema (you don't even realize you change village). Three medium-level hotels are located in front of the sea and you can ask for sea-view room without getting an extra charge if there's availability as you arrive.
Worth trying: a ftira. Typical Mlatese bread, horizontally cut and filled with a stuffing of tuna, olives, beans and abbundant oil. A local soft drink: Kinnie. It's made out of a Mediterranean fruit similar to oranges but somehow bitter, though not as acid as lemon. The producer of this beverage is the oldest company of the island and the first to go public on the Maltese Stock Exchange. Yep, the small island also owns a stock exchange: it's a white-marble building located in Valletta's central avenues...if you were to miss Wall Street trading news.
Last suggestion: dont be couch potatoes! Cabs are not that expensive if you consider Europe's prices, still, buses are more than cheap (and by cheap I mean that a ride from one side to the opposite on of the island costs 1.16€...). And much, much more fun! 

Republika ta Malta

Clouds and rain. Did I jump on a flight to Brighton by mistake this morning? - I wondered as I exited La Valletta's international airport looking for the bus connecting it to the town.
I crossed the road quickly to get repaired under the shelter of the bus stop: I clearly didn't think of taking an umbrella with me as I packed.
Still, as bus nb 8 to Valletta appeared up the hill, I immediately realized there was no mistake but simply a joke by crazy Zeus: a dynamic and colorful Bentford-model vehicle trotted to the stop. I definitely was in the right place: Republic of Malta, straight in the middle of the Mediterranean sea.
I sat next to two ladies chatting in a strange idiom that I imagined had to be the weird Maltese, a mix up of Arabic (60%), Italian (20%) and English (20%). And analogously, the population is a mix up of black-haired, blue eyes, blonds, Mediterranean-line and milk-skinned. All of them united by a religious faith in the Catholic church that I hadn't seen before (notwithstanding my Italian origin).
My adventure had begun.

"Greecing"

In our Greek-Italian translation tests back at school we always bump into the word "δοδεκανησος", placed straight in the middle of a sentence. If on top it was preceded by a preposition, that could mean whatever: from the Dodecanese, to the Dodecanese, through the Dodecanese, about the Dodecanese. In that case, it was a matter of guessing. Some students began asking for hints to mates, in exchange for chocolate bars. Others followed the old Italian tradition of tossing a coin and go for a solution. Others sticked to the dictionary, hoping to get that very sentience (or eventually a similar one) among idiomatic expressions. Others, like me, decided to write their "own" version of the story. I then imagined brave Greek warriors sailing the blue Aegean sea to conquer new lands; merchants trading rare spices and precious tissues from Asia minor and telling stories about those populations. The Dodecanese wasn't an actual place for us - scared students of a very strict Italian school. It was rather a nowhere land.
August 2003, three weeks after getitng my school degree. I was at the Olympic airlines check-in desk at Malpensa airport, carrying my backpack and my sunglasses (sometimes I really look like an Italian despite of myself). I was going to the magic Dodecanese, in the middle of the Agean sea, in the philosophical land of Greece. As the plane began its landing, I saw a constellation of small isles, spotting a strong blue sea. I exited the plane followed by the kind "Welcome to Greece" of a smiling cabin assistant and a blast of the dry, warm wind from Rodos island ran over me. The blue-white Greek flag was happily waving next to the building hosting the terminal, cicadas were singing restlessly, the sun was shining: it was 3 p.m. and I was in Greece.
I understood immediately that I would love that island as much as I loved wrinting creative translations, as much as I loved Kos, Kalimnos; Santorini; Creta in the following years.

Travelling in Greece is a great emotions: you feel the history, you feel the breath of our civilization. At the same time, it's sad. Nowadays Greece is one of the lowest-growth economy within the Euro zone. The language is less spoken than Italian (and I've said much) and contemporary Greek literature as a marginal role internationallt. The public debt is soaring, burocracy stiffles entrepreneurialship, the GDP relies basically on the touristic sector. In order to maximize the return from the summer season, the Greek bet on a teenaging tourism form Northern Europe, selling crews of boys and girls discos and cheap drinks. Which is what they ask: easy hangovers, bullying each other after clubbing and sleeping all day long. Ignoring completely that they are in the land where Socrates and Plato were born. Of course, they're profitable to the economy, much more than a backpacker who eants to sightsee sites is.
Still, beyond economic figures, you can find the irrational side of a journey in Greece. You would live it if you are able to enter the shaded area hiding the true Greece, the one where the Greek live. An "Eυφχαριστό πολί" whispered to the old lady selling you a cold Pepsi is enough to boost the magic enchant of this land: the Greek are very friendly and polite and they will be delighted of share their culture and traditional knowledge with you. You would get to know then, that several eld people from Rodos speak Italian because of the occupation during World war II, you would learn the differences between the Greek ortodox believes and the catholic's, you would figure out that the sweet rythm of Greek music is produced by a guitar-like instrument called buzouki. This is my own Greece, this is the Country where philisophy was born. Tis the land of a population which is proud of its past. My own Greece is the same as theirs, the same of a lady running a smalli deli in the extreme south of Kos island, who explained me that in modern Greek "peripatos" doesnt mean "walking" but rather "journey". The "journey" which leads to new discovery and knowledge. Which is the true objective of philosophy. That philosophy which was taught in Aristoteles' Peripatos.

How to survive your long stay in Paris

Your boss has just told you that you should join your French colleagues in Paris for a semester or a year. Sounds cool: la ville lumière. It is indeed, though France's capital is quite tough to adapt to at the very beginning. Keep in mind your absolute priorities even before getting there are two: learning the more French you can and solving the issue of accomodation, unless your company provides for that (in this case, you can relax). Worst case scenario: you've never taken a French class back at school. I suggest to get some before you leave: speaking the laguage is always a competitive advantage to be fine when you're abroad, still in Paris it's even more true!

If you need to find a flat, ask in advance to your company whether they can provide you with a paper stating they will grant you'll meet your liabilities concerning the flat rental payments. That's your green card to get a contract for housing. A statement from your company may be essential also when it comes to open a bank account. Normally, you get an account if you have a residence in France. But, you get a house if you have a bank account. A couple of sentences from your French boss are likely to get you outta that infernal circle. As you open a bank account, ask immediately for a "Carte Bleu". This last is not just a Visa or Mastercard: don't rely too much on your Amex...paying bills in Paris without a bloody Carte bleu might turn into a nightmare! Why? It's the device which gives you access to all the electronic ticket machines: either you have it or you can start queuing up, no matter what ticket you need.

Another card you can't do without is the RATP's "Passe Navigo". That's the Ile de France public transports company, running all services in "Paris entre les murs" and the regional train service in Greater Paris (the scuffles' burst-on-the-scene banlieu). Your personal magnetic card will allow you to subscribe to the public transports' scheme that suit you more (urban underground only, Greater Paris, monthly/weekly/annual schemes,...). Do bring your ID, no need for you to bring picture, you can have some taken at the RATP offices (one is located in the underground station of Chatelet-Les Halles: pay attention, it's a messy station, don't be shy to ask directly where the hell is the RATP office).

Getting a French mobile SIM is pretty easy: if you're staying for one year, don't hesitate in making a contract for a monthly fee which entitles you to have a flat scheme. Paying a rechargeable makes sense if you're staying for some months only, otherwise it's not convenient at all. Mobile telcos propose more or less analogous rates: the choice depends on your personal needs. If you plan to call mainly abroad, you might be better off with a Bouygues scheme.

Internet flat tariffs normally include free phone calls to fix lines to European Countries and competitive prices/minute to the rest of the world. All operators offer a scheme which provides the wifi password for three laptops or pc at a time and the traditional adsl connection. The whole Paris city (the 20 districts inside the "Peripherique") has a wireless coverage and the majority of cafés (not only Starbucks and Mc's) offer a wifi connection, hence you won't have any problem if your laptop is recent enough.

As you begin your Parisian life, try to settle some reference points in order to be able to enjoy your free time. Sporty ones can enjoy open-air sports, at least during spring and summer: the French practice a lot of skating and biking and you can go jogging in one of the parks or on the Seine's quai. On Friday nights, skaters meet in Place Dautry (14 arr., next to Montparnasse) to begin the weekly tour of the town. Pari-roller has become a well-know event for "ceux qui font du roller". The gyms are quite expensive, especially big ones. Given the extension of the city whatsoever, you ought to opt for a large club, with several training points all over Paris, where you can access with your subscription card. Otherwise you risk not to have time to commute up to your gym as you please (make sure you have one close to your office and another in your neighbourhood). Club Med Gym circuit, though expensive and a bit too posh, has the great advantage to be present in almost every arrodissement.

Don't forget each last Sunday of a month museums are free: you may book those days a a cultural weekend.

As far as going out is concerned: clubs are quite expensive, unless you love hip hop and R'n'B, hence you'd get quite funny nights at decent prices. On the other hand, eating out is less expensive than is many other capitals and you have plenty of choice among a wide variety of world cuisines: beside the French (which I have to admit is delicious, though as an Italian it's hard to tell), try the Maghreb restaurants as they're normally run by French-adopted North African people and proposes the true thing. 

Be ready to a month an half of sadness: Paris is so beautiful but so complicated at the very beginning, you need to adapt. In particular, don't aspect to have to do with Spanish, Italian or Greek folks: it's up to you to learn the language and make yourself accepted among tha Parisians. Which is a big deal. Still, it's worth the effort: "Paris vaut bien una messe". That's so much true!

http://www.ratp.fr/

http://www.pari-roller.com/index.php

http://www.bouyguestelecom.fr/

http://www.orange.fr/

http://www.clubmedgym.com/

Parisian casual Saturday

I couldn't get whether rue Lebon laundry's owner was making a fool of me, as she said "Mademoiselle, vous etes toujours belle comme un coeur", with a bright smile. The scene took place on Saturday morning at around 11 a.m. when I plodded to collect my clothes: I was ahead of a week of trading during the worst recession since 1929, I was eating fast food all the time, sleeping few hours, nervous because of my final paper for College and I hadn't gone for a sunlamp for ages. I was normally in a sweater and large-leg jeans. She wasn't that old to be blind, meaning she was mathematically making a fool of me, though she was always smiling. Remeber that: Parisians are never impolite. Even when they are making a fool of you.

I then went down rue Lebon up to rue Rennequin, where I walked through the weekly market and its multicoloured stalls. Paris owns a tradition of markets which dates back to centuries ago. Look through "Le Ventre de Paris" by Zola and then go round Belleville market (13 arr.) and rue de Montorgeuil  (1 arr). You'll figure out what Zola had in mind when portraying the atmosphere you can still find "chez les marchands".

If you are a supporter of the multicultural society (as I am), you'll enjoy Belleville: multiethnical France's triumph. You'll get lost looking around spices and food from Northern Africa, Oriental handcraft, whatever object you can think of, even the wirdest ones! Parisian merchants carefully exhibit their goods, paying great attention to the esthetics behind their stall. Fish stalls are perhaps the most spectacular: if you want to practice your French, fishmongers are normally more than pleased about explaining where their coquillages come from. You are likely to end up listening great stories about Northern France wild coasts and traditions.

My stomach suddenly reminded me about my bad habit of skipping breakfast as I wake up. Next stop: rue de Courcelles, to get some food for a breakfast at Parc Monceau. You must be thinking "London versus Paris 10-0, when it comes to parks". Well, Parisian green areas are indeed smaller and definitely less "amusing": you wouldn't go for a ride or skating as you would in London, unless you reach the Bois de Boulogne in the western outskirts. However, parks in Paris mirror the rest of the city: perfectly kept, surrounded by lofty, unbelievably lofty, buildings. In particular Maria de Medici-wanted Jardin du Luxembourg (6 arr) deserves a visit. You won't miss Hyde Park or the Regent, as you wander thorugh fountains and marmoric statues. Neither you'll miss Subway's sandwiches if you go there for a break. Forget about your proteic diet in Paris. Just forget about dieting in general: it's impossible for a sane person to resist emissions coming from boulangeries. There's no baking products in Paris:  bakeries crank out masterpieces. Don't miss the chance to test the historic baking landmarks  (Pain de sucre, rue Rambuteau; Alsace, rue Guillaume Tell; Strorher, rue de Montorgeuil; Paul shops across the town and the small boulangerie run by the Guet, in rue de Courcelles).

Rue de Courcelles is narrow and pointed with old street lamps. The Guet have been satisfying the arrodisement's cravings for bread and croissants since decades, in their small and cosy bakery on the corner of rue Demours. You can't miss it, it's the shop where a long queu of people awaits calmly to get the epic baguette campagnarde or a couple of pains aux raisins. Bring something to read with you and be patient: it's worth queuing up for half an hour even if it's raining, asking then for a baguette and ending up with a long piece of bread and no plastic bag nor coverage. Don't try to explain you'd like to pack your baguette in some way, you'll end up being insulted (in French): that's Paris: forget about hygienic concerns!
The city offers an incredible variety of museums and temporary exhibitions. Tourist guides deeply describe the most known, still it's worth have a look to the less "sponsored" ones. An example: ever heard of La Maison Européenne de la photographie (3 arr.)? Write it down on your notebook, it definitely deserves a couple of hours of your time in Paris. It collects international photographic oevres from the 50s to present on a permanent basis, if you are lucky enough, you'll bump into temporary exhibits as well.

If it's sunny and you feel sporty, take a ride: Paris offers a great service of public bikes - les Veli'b - that can be rented for a day, a couple of hour, or how long as you please. You just need to find a Velib station (which is plenty) and choose whether you prefer to go down the "quais" beside the Seine, or explore the narrow alleys in the former Jewish ghetto or go and breath the glam on the Grands Boulevards. Any choice is a good one.
If you are rather an intellectual - and as such you must speak French- stop at one of the several stalls selling second-hand bookes and get a "bouquin". Then, head to les Champs de Mars, just behind the Eiffel Tower and slouch on the gras, reading some French poetry. Priceless.
Fancy a pint? Better, fancy a Orangina (à)? Don't miss the chance of sipping a soda or whatever on a péniche. You know those kinda large boats moored on the Seine? Some of them have been transformed into restaurants and cafés, especially in the Eastern side of the town. A drink at Charlestone - quai de la Gare (13 arr.) - is one of those things that make Paris unique.
Dunno what to do on a Saturday night? Did you know that the French movie industry proliferates quite as much as the American? If you understand some French, I would strongly recommend to try some "homemade" commedy or, if you're brave enough, a movie about French multicultural society. If you don't speak French, no worries, foreign movies are shown in the original version with subtitles. If you have a higher budget at your disposal, you may choose a play in one of the theaters. Wide choice again, especially if you understand French. You should have a surf on leparisien.fr to be immediately up to date about what's on downtown Paris.
Generally speaking, don't forget your toothbrush and pijama before you leave for Paris. Do forget your tourist guide, if you have one!

http://www.velib.paris.fr/
http://www.mep-fr.org/default_test_ok.htm
http://www.leparisien.fr/actualites-informations-direct-videos-parisien

Looking for a flat in Paris

The following points are meant to be guidelines for a foreigner which needs to find a flat in Paris.


1) If you are not seriously obliged to stay for a long while, consider seriously to invest some money in excess than you planned and go to a Apart Hotel. Believe me, you'll get a high return on capital invested, as you avoid the stress connected to be looking for a flat in Paris.

2) If you really cannot do without staying for longer than 3-4 months (hence you can't opt for a "temporary solution"), first of all begin taking ginseng or magnesium pills in the morning, you will need it.

3) There are several websites where you can find for-rental adverts. Of course in French. If you address yourself to English alternatives, consider that it is unlikely that you would get a legal contract.

4) When you find an interesting advert, call immediately, even if it is late night or very early morning. Consider that 65% of your calls will result into a "sorry, it is rent already".

5) When you get an appointment to visit a flat, dont be surprise to find out that another 20-30 people got an appointment for the same flat, at the very same time: demand exceeds supply so much that flat owners feel entitled to do whatever.

6) Don't forget to bring a copy of your working contract with you. If you don't afford a high salary (you are an intern for example), you have the right to have a person granting in economical terms on your behalf. This person should be a French, meaning that he/she has to pay taxes in France. If, as a foreigner, you don't have anyone corresponding to this profile and you haven't had the time to find a wealthy French boyfriend/girlfriend, forget about a lovely small studio on your own and get ready to share a three-four bedroom flat with at least 6 others.

7) When you deal with the flat owner, obviously in French, make sure you pronounce everything in a proper manner otherwise they would not understand. Be careful especially when you are on the phone. If your French is not good enough, chances are that the speaker will abruptly hang up in the middle of the conversation.

8) As you visit a flat, make sure that: the flat is heated, the fridge works, there is a sort of kitchen in place and that there is a working internet connection. Even ask if you may try to log on. Beware of people saying to you "there's not internet yet, but I've just applied for a flat wifi service": in that case, expect to wait a couple of months before having it in place. If you're lucky enough, you'll be able to smuggle your neighbors' wifi passwords. Forget about the washing machine and the elevator unless you have a very high disposable budget on housing.

9) Consider that you will be ask to pay at least 2 months in advance.

10) When you'll have your flat, most of the time you will face conditions that you have never expected in a EU Member State (at least, for Italian readers, be prepared to face what you were told as a child by your granny "when I was young and I didn't have a washing machine, nor a car, nor proper heating..).

11) Bottom line: before packing everything and go back home, have a walk downtown Paris. You'll be in the most beautiful place in the world, you'll forget about everything else and get the inner strength to move on with your Parisian life.

http://www.appartager.com/
http://www.craigslist.org/about/sites
http://www.recherche-colocation.com/paris.html

Go and have a look at the Parisian American church's dashboard: it normally hosts rentals and job offers and it's constantly updated (65, Quai d'orsay. VII arr.).

Stockholm - tips for a summer trip

Swede summers are short and the best of it the end of June, when sun shines till late at night. RyanAir operates flights to Skatsa airport, around 100-km far from Stockholm.You can get to the capital by train, for the station of Nyköping (7 km far from the airport). SAS airlines provide a wide range of flights to the city hub (Arlanda), which is in turn connected to the centre by a quick train service (Arlanda Express). I have always chosen the second option: public transports and cabs fares are quite expensive and you might lose the price advantage when you end up far away from the city.

Stockholm - as well as the Country in general - is very safe, you won't generally end up in a black-spot filthy hotel. Make sure you are close to a subway station if you are not downtown, that may be confortable as the suburbs stretch far from the centre.

After a yummie Swede breakfast, you can go for "classics" on your first day. Head to Gamla Stan, the medieval district, and take your time to fool around. Literally: forget about your mobile phone switch off your blackberry, stop browsing for a wi-fi zone. Just enjoy. The medieval town hosts two examples of sacrated Nordic architecture (Storkirkan and Tyskakirkan), as well as the Royal Palace. This last is astonishingly elegant, not withstanding its simplicity, in line with the generally sober atmosphere that one can breath in the Country. It's the place where Nobel prizes are delivered (apart from the Peace reward which is held in Oslo) and you can find a museum about the history and chronology of this international ceremony. Being a small island, it offers panoramic views of the town in front of it: don't miss the chance to give a glimpse to the City Hall building which stands a few sea miles away, in front of Riddaholmshammen. Gamla Stan is not only culture. It offers also a caleindoscope of cozy shops: while noising around the small alleys you'll bump into vintage clothing, hand-made jewelries, second-hand comics dealers, calm cafés.

If you are lucky enough on your second, you'll find one of those sunny yet cool days that I love about Stockholm as I have a break from the stifling Milan summer, don't be a couch potatoe and walk down sea-sided Strandvagen to Djurgarden.  

There you find a huge green area and Skansen: a conglomerate of outdoor attractions which are worth visiting. Skansen area have been hosting festivals and celebrations since long time ago. It offers both historical buildings to sightsee, a fabolous zoo of Scandivanian animals and other uniqueness pearl like Astrid Linger-dedicated theme park. If it were to get rainy (chances are, weather is variable), you may be interested in visiting the Vasamuseet. Everything but a boring museum. You will admire the remains of an original Vasa boat are on exhibition. Beside the awesome vessel, those of you who are fond of history (as I do) will enjoy the reconstructions of a Vasa village and the explanations about th way Scandinavian sailors lived and travelled back in the past.

Stockholm is actually plenty of museums, still, you might prefer to skip them and privilege a shopping session or some sport on the days you're left with (I strongly recommend to do so!).

Being a spoilt Italian lass, I have a tendency for the "Shopping malls other than Milan's? Yeah...of course...", with the only exception of Paris. Stockholm was a surprise in that sense. Not a city for luxury brands clients, though plenty of convenient casual outfit shops: the value for money gets higher when it comes to winter clothing and shoes. Just consider that on my first time there, I ended up fighting with my suitcase lock because of the three coats I had bought in the boulevards around T-centralen station. Not mentioning the glam brown boots I got last year for 70 euros! The area between T-centralen and Ostermalmtorg is a tough battlefield for a shopaholic (carefully gaze the map: that'll be your playing ground)! Enormous H&M flagship stores, local brands'shops, department stores where you can find whatever: from clothing, to house stuff, from perfumery, to bakeries (a shopping session has to imply an epicurean lunch break, especially on holiday). I had one of the best times in my life as I finally fell in a blue armchair of a café, throwing a set of plenty shopping bags on the floor next to me and ordered a kannelbulle (typical Swedish cinnamon roll) and a large cappucino!

And then, enjoy the people and the relaxed atmosphere of this city: you'll fall in love with it and wish to be back.