Parisian casual Saturday

I couldn't get whether rue Lebon laundry's owner was making a fool of me, as she said "Mademoiselle, vous etes toujours belle comme un coeur", with a bright smile. The scene took place on Saturday morning at around 11 a.m. when I plodded to collect my clothes: I was ahead of a week of trading during the worst recession since 1929, I was eating fast food all the time, sleeping few hours, nervous because of my final paper for College and I hadn't gone for a sunlamp for ages. I was normally in a sweater and large-leg jeans. She wasn't that old to be blind, meaning she was mathematically making a fool of me, though she was always smiling. Remeber that: Parisians are never impolite. Even when they are making a fool of you.

I then went down rue Lebon up to rue Rennequin, where I walked through the weekly market and its multicoloured stalls. Paris owns a tradition of markets which dates back to centuries ago. Look through "Le Ventre de Paris" by Zola and then go round Belleville market (13 arr.) and rue de Montorgeuil  (1 arr). You'll figure out what Zola had in mind when portraying the atmosphere you can still find "chez les marchands".

If you are a supporter of the multicultural society (as I am), you'll enjoy Belleville: multiethnical France's triumph. You'll get lost looking around spices and food from Northern Africa, Oriental handcraft, whatever object you can think of, even the wirdest ones! Parisian merchants carefully exhibit their goods, paying great attention to the esthetics behind their stall. Fish stalls are perhaps the most spectacular: if you want to practice your French, fishmongers are normally more than pleased about explaining where their coquillages come from. You are likely to end up listening great stories about Northern France wild coasts and traditions.

My stomach suddenly reminded me about my bad habit of skipping breakfast as I wake up. Next stop: rue de Courcelles, to get some food for a breakfast at Parc Monceau. You must be thinking "London versus Paris 10-0, when it comes to parks". Well, Parisian green areas are indeed smaller and definitely less "amusing": you wouldn't go for a ride or skating as you would in London, unless you reach the Bois de Boulogne in the western outskirts. However, parks in Paris mirror the rest of the city: perfectly kept, surrounded by lofty, unbelievably lofty, buildings. In particular Maria de Medici-wanted Jardin du Luxembourg (6 arr) deserves a visit. You won't miss Hyde Park or the Regent, as you wander thorugh fountains and marmoric statues. Neither you'll miss Subway's sandwiches if you go there for a break. Forget about your proteic diet in Paris. Just forget about dieting in general: it's impossible for a sane person to resist emissions coming from boulangeries. There's no baking products in Paris:  bakeries crank out masterpieces. Don't miss the chance to test the historic baking landmarks  (Pain de sucre, rue Rambuteau; Alsace, rue Guillaume Tell; Strorher, rue de Montorgeuil; Paul shops across the town and the small boulangerie run by the Guet, in rue de Courcelles).

Rue de Courcelles is narrow and pointed with old street lamps. The Guet have been satisfying the arrodisement's cravings for bread and croissants since decades, in their small and cosy bakery on the corner of rue Demours. You can't miss it, it's the shop where a long queu of people awaits calmly to get the epic baguette campagnarde or a couple of pains aux raisins. Bring something to read with you and be patient: it's worth queuing up for half an hour even if it's raining, asking then for a baguette and ending up with a long piece of bread and no plastic bag nor coverage. Don't try to explain you'd like to pack your baguette in some way, you'll end up being insulted (in French): that's Paris: forget about hygienic concerns!
The city offers an incredible variety of museums and temporary exhibitions. Tourist guides deeply describe the most known, still it's worth have a look to the less "sponsored" ones. An example: ever heard of La Maison Européenne de la photographie (3 arr.)? Write it down on your notebook, it definitely deserves a couple of hours of your time in Paris. It collects international photographic oevres from the 50s to present on a permanent basis, if you are lucky enough, you'll bump into temporary exhibits as well.

If it's sunny and you feel sporty, take a ride: Paris offers a great service of public bikes - les Veli'b - that can be rented for a day, a couple of hour, or how long as you please. You just need to find a Velib station (which is plenty) and choose whether you prefer to go down the "quais" beside the Seine, or explore the narrow alleys in the former Jewish ghetto or go and breath the glam on the Grands Boulevards. Any choice is a good one.
If you are rather an intellectual - and as such you must speak French- stop at one of the several stalls selling second-hand bookes and get a "bouquin". Then, head to les Champs de Mars, just behind the Eiffel Tower and slouch on the gras, reading some French poetry. Priceless.
Fancy a pint? Better, fancy a Orangina (à)? Don't miss the chance of sipping a soda or whatever on a péniche. You know those kinda large boats moored on the Seine? Some of them have been transformed into restaurants and cafés, especially in the Eastern side of the town. A drink at Charlestone - quai de la Gare (13 arr.) - is one of those things that make Paris unique.
Dunno what to do on a Saturday night? Did you know that the French movie industry proliferates quite as much as the American? If you understand some French, I would strongly recommend to try some "homemade" commedy or, if you're brave enough, a movie about French multicultural society. If you don't speak French, no worries, foreign movies are shown in the original version with subtitles. If you have a higher budget at your disposal, you may choose a play in one of the theaters. Wide choice again, especially if you understand French. You should have a surf on leparisien.fr to be immediately up to date about what's on downtown Paris.
Generally speaking, don't forget your toothbrush and pijama before you leave for Paris. Do forget your tourist guide, if you have one!

http://www.velib.paris.fr/
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